Jaymz The Barber at Silk Barbershop X The Cutthroat Journal | Online Barber Competition 2020

Creating a low taper with a natural part and textured fringe requires skill and precision. This haircut combines classic barbering techniques with modern styling to achieve a polished look that suits many face shapes and hair types.

The process begins with proper hair preparation, including combing and sectioning. Careful point cutting and razor techniques help remove bulk and create texture, while blow-drying shapes the hair. Clipper work establishes the taper and head shape, followed by detailed blending and fine-tuning for a seamless finish.

Key Takeaways

• Proper hair preparation and cutting techniques create texture and remove bulk

• Clipper work builds the taper and head shape, with gradual blending for a smooth transition

• Detailing and product selection are crucial for achieving a polished, long-lasting result

  
  

Getting the Hair Ready

Brushing the Crown

Jaymz The Barber starts by brushing the crown in the direction of hair growth. This prevents incorrect cutting into the crown area.

Dividing Hair into Sections

Separate the hair into distinct sections to manage the cut more effectively.

Adding Texture with Precise Cuts

Create texture by making small cuts from the fringe towards the back. This technique removes bulk from the ends and blends the hair smoothly.

Methods for Removing Bulk

A styling razor can be used to remove excess bulk quickly. This saves time when blow-drying the hair into shape later. Dry cutting allows the stylist to see how the hair naturally falls and sits.

Drying and Styling

Blow-Drying Method

To achieve the perfect low taper with a natural part, proper drying and styling techniques are crucial. After cutting, the stylist uses a blow dryer on medium to low heat to shape the hair. This dry-cutting approach allows the barber to see how the hair naturally moves and sits, ensuring a more accurate cut.

The stylist starts by combing the cowlick in the direction of hair growth. This step is important to prevent cutting into the cowlick incorrectly. Next, they section the hair and create texture by point cutting from the fringe to the back. Point cutting removes bulk from the ends and blends the hair for a seamless look.

For those with particularly thick hair, a styling razor can be used to remove extra bulk quickly. This technique can save time during the blow-drying process.

When selecting products, it's essential to consider the client's hair type and condition. For dense and coarse hair, a clay product is an excellent choice. It provides strong control while adding volume and texture to the finished style.

Shaping the Head Contours

Essential Clipper Skills

Proper clipper technique is key for creating clean haircuts. Hold the clipper with a firm grip and move it smoothly against the hair growth. Use gentle flicking motions when tapering to blend seamlessly. Start with a longer guard and work down to shorter lengths gradually.

Forming a Boxy Head Profile

To achieve a square shape, use a number 3 guard on the clipper. Keep the clipper low on the sides and back. Move upwards in sweeping motions, angling the comb slightly away from the crown. This helps create crisp lines and a defined square silhouette. Repeat this method around the entire perimeter of the head.

Clipper-Over-Comb Method

The clipper-over-comb technique allows for precise sculpting. Hold a comb flat against the head and glide the clipper over it to trim excess length. This works well for blending and shaping the upper sides and back. Use a zero or half guard for a close cut. Adjust the angle of the comb to refine the head shape as needed.

Creating the Fade by Jaymz The Barber

Establishing the Base with a Closed Zero Clipper

To start the fade, a barber uses a closed zero clipper to create a baseline. They keep the clipper low, moving it in a C-shaped motion and flicking outwards. The taper should stay below the temple area. This technique sets the foundation for the fade.

Blending with Guards and Lever Adjustments

Next, the barber uses a 0.5 closed guard above the zero baseline. They gradually open the lever and fade upwards. This method is repeated on both sides and around the nape. A number one closed guard is then used above the 0.5 guideline, flicking upwards and outwards. The lever is slowly opened to blend up into a 1.5.

Checking Evenness and Smoothing

The taper should start to look blurry at this stage. To ensure evenness, the barber cross-checks the taper by reversing the process. This helps blend out any dark spots. For fine-tuning, the corner of a zero closed clipper is used. A detailer sharpens the edges, following the natural hairline. Scissor-over-comb point cutting removes weight lines for a soft finish. Any remaining dark spots or imperfections are addressed using detailers at a 45-degree angle or with shearing scissors. A razor can be used to sharpen the lines further.

Refining the Haircut

Perfecting the Gradual Fade

The stylist begins by combing the cowlick in the direction of hair growth to prevent incorrect cutting. After sectioning the hair, they use point cutting from fringe to back, which removes bulk and blends the hair seamlessly. A styling razor can be used to remove extra bulk if needed. Dry cutting helps the stylist see how the hair naturally moves.

Starting with a number three guard, the clipper is kept low and swept upwards with the comb angled slightly away from the crown. This technique creates a square head shape. The stylist repeats this around the head's perimeter, sculpting the shape with clipper-over-comb method.

Creating Crisp Lines

A closed zero clipper is used to create a baseline, staying low and using a C-motion to flick out. The taper is kept below the temple. Moving upwards, a 0.5 closed guard is used above the zero baseline. The lever is gradually opened to fade upwards.

This process is repeated on the other side and around the nape. A number one closed guard is then used above the 0.5 guideline, flicking upwards and outwards. The lever is gradually opened until it blends into a 1.5.

Soft Blending Techniques

To ensure evenness, the stylist cross-checks the taper by reversing the process, blending out any dark spots. The corner of a zero closed clipper is used to fine-tune the taper.

For a soft finish, scissor-over-comb point cutting removes any weight lines. Detailers or shearing scissors at a 45-degree angle help remove dark spots and imperfections. A razor sharpens the lines for a clean look.

The stylist chooses a clay product for this cut, as it's strong enough to control dense, coarse hair while providing volume and texture.

Final Touches

Product Choice

The stylist emphasises the importance of picking the right products for each client's hair type and condition. For this particular cut, a clay product is chosen. Clay works well for controlling dense, coarse hair while adding volume and texture.

Styling with Clay

To finish the look, the stylist applies the clay product. This step helps to set the style and enhance the overall appearance of the cut. The clay provides strong hold for the low taper and natural part, while allowing for a textured fringe. It's a versatile product that can be worked through the hair to achieve the desired shape and finish.